Ottilia Sews! Hooded Sweat Jacket Tutorial

As another installment of "Ottilia Sews!" series for novice sewers, we created this photo tutorial to supplement the cutting layout and especially detailed instructions for "Montparnasse" Hooded Sweat Jacket.

You will find the patterns for this hooded sweat jacket in our autumn issue 4/2010 in sizes 116-122-128-134-140-146 cm. Take a look at pages 14-15, 60-61 and 39 for detailed instructions!

HOW TO SEW A SIMPLE "MONTPARNASSE" HOODED SWEAT JACKET

MATERIALS
- 80-80-90-95-115-120 cm  stretchy sweater knit
- 35 cm striped cotton single jersey (CO/EA) for hood lining
- separating zipper, length 27-29-32-34-37-40 cm
- 60 cm stretch grosgrain ribbon, width 10 mm
- 80…110 cm stay tape, Vlieseline® Formband
- 54…60 cm elastic, width 10 mm

 
CUTTING
Cut hood lining from cotton single jersey and other garment pieces from sweater knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Pattern piece for binding for opening edge of pocket includes seam allowances.

SEWING
Construction techniques: Stitch seams with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching using presser-foot edge as guide unless otherwise instructed.

Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for center-front edges on front panels and for shoulder edges on back panel (measure required lengths on pattern pieces and add seam allowances). Fuse tapes to wrong side of seam allowances.

Pockets: Sew gathering stitches at opening edges of pockets as marked on pattern and gather edges.

Finish opening edges of pockets with binding.

Pin front edges of pockets to center-front edges of front panels as marked on pattern, turn seam allowances on other pocket edges to wrong side and stitch pockets to front panels close to edge.

Hood: Pin outer hood panels as well as hood lining panels together and stitch them together. Topstitch seam on outer hood.

Pin hood sections together, right sides facing, and stitch their face edges together.

Understitch seam allowances to hood lining close to seamline.

Place hood sections within one another and pin face edge in position. Sew row of stitching 15 mm away from face edge (=casing). Insert elastic into casing and stitch its ends to seam allowances on neckline edge of hood. Stitch neckline edges of hood sections together.

Stitch shoulder seams, fold seam allowances toward back panels and top-stitch seams.

Stitch sleeves to armholes and topstitch seams.

Stitch sleeve under-arm seams and side seams. Finish raw center-front and bottom-hem edges. 

Pin and stitch hood to garment’s neckline, right sides together, aligning neckline corners of hood with center-front seamlines.

Trim neckline seam allowances.

Pin and stitch one edge of grosgrain ribbon to neckline seam allowance on hood lining side.

Pin and stitch other edge of grosgrain ribbon to neckline, concealing neckline seam allowances.

Open zipper. Pin zipper tapes to garment’s front edges right sides together, aligning bottom end of zipper with bottom-hem foldline and concealing finished center-front edges under zipper tapes. Stitch zipper in place close to its teeth. Close zipper and check that top edges of pockets are aligned.

Fold hem allowance at each bottom-hem corner to right side over ends of zipper and stitch center-front edges of hem allowance to garment. Fold top ends of zipper tapes over neck edge to wrong side, fold and pin zipper tapes right way up and topstitch garment’s front edges, placing stitching close to outer edge of zipper tape.

Fold up bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems and stitch them with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine.
Cut piece of grosgrain ribbon and stitch it as embellishment at garment’s bottom hem as shown in design sketch.

All done. Congratulations!