Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Ottilia Sews! “Garden Flower” Skirt

Clothes needn’t be complicated to make or have lots of details to look attractive. A simple, beautiful design lends itself well for modification and is often also easy to sew.

In order to encourage novice sewers, we made a cutting layout and especially detailed instructions for this sweet & simple “Garden Flower” skirt. We created this photo tutorial to supplement those instructions.

You will find the patterns for this little skirt with a yoke in our spring issue 1/2010 in sizes 98-104-110-116-122-128-134-140-146 cm. Take a look at pages 6-7 and 34 for detailed instructions!

Fabrics for these two skirts are from textile designer Anna Maria Horner’s beautiful Garden Party collection. It is virtually sold out, but please visit Anna Maria’s blog to see her latest collections: annamariahorner.blogspot.com

Please notice!  The fabric requirement give in the magazine is for 145 cm wide fabric. If you buy 112 cm / 44 inches wide fabric, you need: 55-60-65-70-75-80-85-90-95 cm or 22-24-26-28-30-32-34-36-38 inches.


1 Cut 
Fold fabric in half lengthwise and pin pattern pieces on fabric, placing pattern pieces for front yoke, skirt front and shaped facing for front on fabric fold. Draw seam allowances (1 cm) around pattern pieces. Cut garment pieces from fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Mark placement of zipper with notches on center-back seam allowances on skirt back panels. Mark center-front points with notches on front yoke, skirt front panel and shaped facing for front.
(Notch = 3 mm deep clip into fabric edge.)

2 Stabilize
Stabilizing: Cut pieces of interfacing for shaped facings (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns), adding 5 mm seam allowances. Iron interfacings onto wrong side of shaped facings. Use ironing cloth or baking sheet between iron and interfacing in order to prevent adhesive from sticking to base of iron. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for applying interfacing.

Construction techniques:
 Stitch seams with straight stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch.

3 Stitch side seams   

Joining: Pin skirt front and back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch side seams. Pin front and back yoke panels together, right sides facing, and stitch side seams. Finish side seams on both skirt and yoke section. Fold and press seam allowances toward back panels.

4 Stitch yoke to skirt

Pin and stitch yoke to skirt, right sides together. Fold and press seam allowances gently toward yoke.

5 Serge or zigzag center-back edges

Finish raw center-back edges and bottom-hem edge.

  6 Stitch one zipper tape to skirt

Zipper: Open zipper and pin left zipper tape to garment’s left center-back edge, right sides together. Stitch zipper tape in place as close to coil as possible, using invisible zipper foot. Pin and stitch right zipper tape in place in the same way. Close zipper and check that yoke seam-lines are aligned. Stitch center-back seam from bottom of zipper placket down to bottom hem. Press seam open.

  7 Stitch the other zipper tape in place

  8 Join shaped facings 

Shaped facing: Pin shaped facings for front and back together, right sides facing, and stitch side seams. Finish seams and fold and press seam allowances toward front panel. Finish raw bottom edge of shaped facing.

  9 Stitch center-back edges of shaped facing to zipper placket

Pin and stitch center-back edges of shaped facing to edges of zipper placket, right sides together and with zipper in between. Place stitching 5 mm away from stitching line that attaches zipper.

  10 Stitching shaped facing, right side

  11 Stitch waist seam

Pin shaped facing to garment’s waist, right sides together, aligning side seams and center-front notches and folding center-back seam allowances toward shaped facing. Stitch waist seam.

  12 Understitch seam allowances to shaped facing

Turn center-back corners right side out. Fold waist seam allowances toward shaped facing and understitch them to facing close to seamline.

  13 Neat corner, wrong side

Press waist edge gently. Pin bottom edge of shaped facing to yoke seamline, working from right side of garment, and stitch it in place by stitching-in-the-ditch along yoke seamline.

  14 Neat corner, right side 

Finishing: Fold up and press 3 cm wide hem at bottom edge of garment and stitch it with straight stitch.

  15 Oh - such a pretty skirt,  front

  16 Oh - such a pretty skirt, back


hverdags-mamma said...

Now the skirt is here... Thanx... :)
Love the new mag btw.

Taly said...

Thank you so much for the picture tutorial. I want my girls to learn to do it themselves and the pictures will help them a lot!

mermaids said...

great tutorial! i will share this link with the students in my son's apparel development class.

Unknown said...

I love the picture tutorial, very helpful.

Kathy said...

This is a lovely skirt. Do you think the pattern would also work with a cotton jersey fabric?

Megbud said...

Lovely - very clear and helpful! Would love to see more of these in the future.

petal said...

Thank you for the detailed, clear instructions

Ria said...

I love to see this. I just cut out a skirt for myself, # 4 from issue 5/2007, which is very simmular. This is a great help for the zipper.

Leah said...

Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing. I'm still waiting for my new issue...

Anonymous said...

Thank you for the tutorial, can't wait to get my issue. Are Anna Maria Horner quilting fabric or are they intended for garments?
ghainskom at yahoo dot com

Anonymous said...

merci pour le pas a pas, c'est une tres bonne idée! surtout pour les petites Francaises qui ont du mal avec les langues etrangeres mais qui aiment tellement ces jolis modeles!

Taly said...

I have three questions.
1. You first instruct stabilizing the facing, but in the pictures it seems like the outer yoke is interfaced (not the inner facing). Am I misunderstanding something?
2. When you sew on facing on the zipper, it seems like the facing is longer than the actual skirt, are you supposed to slide the facing a bit out to achieve this?
3. I understand how to do this, but how do you this when you have a fully lined skirt of dress? I just can't seem to figure it out (and trying to do an Ottobre pattern that is fully lined). It would be great if you would put a picture tutorial like this for a fully lined skirt or drees! Thank you again.

Crafty Mama said...

This is wonderful, thankyou!

flower Philippines said...

Thank you so much for the tutorial I will try doing this later seems that I love the flower design. Keep posting!


silk bouquets ideas said...

The skirt is sooo cute, the pattern looks gorgeous. You make it look so easy with your tutorial here, Thanks a lot for sharing.

Florist Sydney said...

I can't sew that good, it's always a challenge for me, but after seeing this project of yours, it inspires me to make one of this and of course with your very detailed tutorial and step by step instruction, I can't possibly go wrong, thanks a lot.

plumbing said...

I love the concept of this blog. I enjoyed the pattern tutorial. Thanks for that. I hope i can do that for my sister. She loves colorful skirt.

Anonymous said...

I've made the same skirt, but place the zipper in the side-seam.
Hope this makes sense; I am not familiar with the English terms in sewing ;-).
So I place the front and back pieces at the fabric fold.
Saves fabric and thread as well.